I’ve always wanted to try making a coat for myself but somewhat scared of it. When I found out that there is a coat pattern in The Burdastyle Sewing Handbook, I knew that it was time to face my fear! I went to Yuzawaya and got myself some pistachio green tweed wool and lining fabric in stripes pattern.
The pattern in this book has no seam allowances and needed to be traced. I use size 34 on bust tapered to 36 on waist and hip. In the tissue-fitting session, I found out that the bodice needed to be shortened and the back needed swayback adjustment. It seems that these two alterations are the ones that I always needed.
After a quick muslin to check the fit, I also shortened the hem a lot (15 cm!) and lowered the neckline (1cm). I drafted a new collar, it is wider, flat, with no rounded corner. The outer collar was cut a bit wider than the undercollar so the seam would roll under. The under collar was cut on bias for a better shape.
The upper front pieces are block-fused, something that I learned from RTW Tailoring Sew along at Pattern Scissors Cloth blog. Actually I was looking for a slip dress pattern, and the blog was suggested (thank you Carmen!). Sherry, the owner of the blog, has generously provided a free gorgeous slip dres pattern, and also a great sewalong about RTW Tailoring.
The upper back pieces of my coat are not block-fused like the front pieces, but I added muslin back stay to keep the shoulders and armholes from stretching out.
The Burdastyle coat uses the same sleeves pattern for both sleeves and sleeves lining, while coat and jacket lining usually are a bit bigger than the outer garment to allow movement. So I learned to make new sleeve lining pattern.
The gathered sleeve was a bit droopy so I sewed a strip of sleevehead on the seam allowance for support. The sleeveheads was bought in Yuzawaya but it can be substituted with bias grain strip of wool or muslin. It really make a difference on the shape of the sleeves.
The side seam pockets were sewed using a technique that I learned from David Page Coffin’s book, Making Trousers for Men & Women. I also made new belt loops and attached them using techniques from this book. The back vent, skirt hem, and sleeve hems were reinforced with strips of fusible interfacing.
Things I should do better next time:
- The coat is quite fitted so I can’t wear too many layers underneath. I could have used some thin interlinings for added warmth.
- I really love the new collar but it was not rolled properly. I should have shaped and steamed the collar prior to attaching.
- The block fusing was not perfect in some parts, there are bubble on several parts if you look really close. Maybe hair canvas and pad stitching for interfacing would make a better result.
- There are a couple of folds around the back area near the sleeves that I don’t know how to eliminate. Is this normal? Should learn more about fitting.
- My sewing machine refused to make a proper buttonholes. After several failed attempts, I decided to use snap-on buttons instead. Should try making bound buttonholes. Scary!
Am I being too picky? I guess the more you learn, the less you know. Anyway, despite all of the faults, I had so much fun making it and learning new things. I love my new coat!
Pattern is from The Burdastyle Sewing Handbook with redrafted collar. Size 34 on bust and 36 on waist and hip.
Useful links:
- RTW Tailoring Sew along at Pattern Scissors Cloth
- Sewing Tutorial | How to Bag a Jacket Lining at Grainline studio
- Lady Grey coat sew along at New Blog for Better Sewing
Ooh, I LOVE that lining! Such a cute contrast with the pistachio!
Hello. Its absolutly fantastic coat. Can yuo tell me the code from the book, that i can have the pattern?
I love your coat!
Sorry I don’t understand what you meant by the code from the book. The link to the book is at the end of the post. You can also search for ‘Burdastyle Sewing Handbook’.
Your coat looks absolutely fantastic! I have not read all the comments, so I may be repeating what others have already said.
Your minor wrinkles in the back near the sleeve are fine – you do need a little room in order to move your arms forward. It is possible you could adjust the armscye to minimize them, but there is always a balancing act between fitting and wearing ease. If you are still curious, you might check Sunni’s blog A Fashionable Stitch – I know she has blogged about fitting her back and arms.
Don’t give up on fusible interfacing! It is possible to get bubble-free results with good quality product and plenty of heat & steam. You might check Pam Erny’s blog called Off the Cuff. Of course, traditional tailoring techniques are wonderful, too. (but time consuming).
Bound buttonholes aren’t too hard – there are different methods and I am sure you’ll be a whiz at it. I blogged about a method called the “strip method” and it was easy peasy.
Very nice work!! Enjoy your stylish coat. It suits you
Wow thank you for all the inputs and links! You are very helpful.
Never thought before that the wrinkles are fine, but now I see that it would be hard to move my arms without them. Should try again on the fusible interfacing. I guess I was too excited to see the final result and not patient enough while pressing them.
Bound buttonholes! I will practice on them!
Beautiful coat and fabric! Thanks for all of the little tips of what you would do next time. I’m currently sewing my first jacket (the Minoru) and your tips (especially the first one) gave me some food-for-thought before beginning.
This coat is such a beauty! Congrats! I don’t have the BurdaStyle Handbook – but I’ve been seeing such sweet creations popping up all over the blogs – I just may have to jump on that.
Your coat turned out great and fits lovely!
A very beautiful coat that looks fantastic on you. I love the lining and thanks for the tip about sleeve heads.
I love your new coat too! I have been considering making the same pattern from the book which I haven’t used yet. Thanks for all the advice and tips and you look very pretty in your new coat. The lining is a fun surprise.
This is stellar – so cute! Thanks for linking to the books you used, to; they look really interesting. Congratulations on making this work
it looks fantastic … can I come to your house and sew with you all day? I have sew much to learn
Hello,
It’s been a while since I blog. I love what you do. I made your “reversible bag” that I put on my blog. I will make many more because the tutorial is very well explained and the bag is easy to do
See you soon
I think your coat looks wonderful. I’m so glad you made it, and that it looks so nice, as I have my eye on this myself!
In my opinion you are very conscientious in not taking the easy route and in using all your own, preferred, techniques. Something I should try more myself.
Thanks for posting.