I’ve always wanted to try making a coat for myself but somewhat scared of it. When I found out that there is a coat pattern in The Burdastyle Sewing Handbook, I knew that it was time to face my fear! I went to Yuzawaya and got myself some pistachio green tweed wool and lining fabric in stripes pattern.
The pattern in this book has no seam allowances and needed to be traced. I use size 34 on bust tapered to 36 on waist and hip. In the tissue-fitting session, I found out that the bodice needed to be shortened and the back needed swayback adjustment. It seems that these two alterations are the ones that I always needed.
After a quick muslin to check the fit, I also shortened the hem a lot (15 cm!) and lowered the neckline (1cm). I drafted a new collar, it is wider, flat, with no rounded corner. The outer collar was cut a bit wider than the undercollar so the seam would roll under. The under collar was cut on bias for a better shape.
The upper front pieces are block-fused, something that I learned from RTW Tailoring Sew along at Pattern Scissors Cloth blog. Actually I was looking for a slip dress pattern, and the blog was suggested (thank you Carmen!). Sherry, the owner of the blog, has generously provided a free gorgeous slip dres pattern, and also a great sewalong about RTW Tailoring.
The upper back pieces of my coat are not block-fused like the front pieces, but I added muslin back stay to keep the shoulders and armholes from stretching out.
The Burdastyle coat uses the same sleeves pattern for both sleeves and sleeves lining, while coat and jacket lining usually are a bit bigger than the outer garment to allow movement. So I learned to make new sleeve lining pattern.
The gathered sleeve was a bit droopy so I sewed a strip of sleevehead on the seam allowance for support. The sleeveheads was bought in Yuzawaya but it can be substituted with bias grain strip of wool or muslin. It really make a difference on the shape of the sleeves.
The side seam pockets were sewed using a technique that I learned from David Page Coffin’s book, Making Trousers for Men & Women. I also made new belt loops and attached them using techniques from this book. The back vent, skirt hem, and sleeve hems were reinforced with strips of fusible interfacing.
Things I should do better next time:
- The coat is quite fitted so I can’t wear too many layers underneath. I could have used some thin interlinings for added warmth.
- I really love the new collar but it was not rolled properly. I should have shaped and steamed the collar prior to attaching.
- The block fusing was not perfect in some parts, there are bubble on several parts if you look really close. Maybe hair canvas and pad stitching for interfacing would make a better result.
- There are a couple of folds around the back area near the sleeves that I don’t know how to eliminate. Is this normal? Should learn more about fitting.
- My sewing machine refused to make a proper buttonholes. After several failed attempts, I decided to use snap-on buttons instead. Should try making bound buttonholes. Scary!
Am I being too picky? I guess the more you learn, the less you know. Anyway, despite all of the faults, I had so much fun making it and learning new things. I love my new coat!
Pattern is from The Burdastyle Sewing Handbook with redrafted collar. Size 34 on bust and 36 on waist and hip.
Useful links:
- RTW Tailoring Sew along at Pattern Scissors Cloth
- Sewing Tutorial | How to Bag a Jacket Lining at Grainline studio
- Lady Grey coat sew along at New Blog for Better Sewing
Beautiful job! well done! Great fit too! I also had trouble when sewing buttonholes on my coat. In the end I learned how to make them by hand. I still think it’s faster than bound buttonholes. Must learn that technique too.
Your coat is fabulous! I love the color, and all the care you put into making it really shows!
Great summary, Novita! It’s great to hear all the techniques that you used and what you would do differently. I haven’t made a coat (kind of scared of it as well) and it’s great to know all the things that you did on yours. Thanks! (And I think it looks great on you!)
Thats one beautiful coat .
I love it , it’s gorgeous!! Excelent sewing
i love your work! this coat is adorable and unique and it looks perfectly tailored – good job!!
i love your coat so, so much. it’s darling.
Really lovely. And I really like that you made it your own instead of following the pattern to the letter. Only you will notice the little glitches… All we get to see is a perfectly beautiful and well made coat!
This is so lovely! Great job! I can’t believe this is the first coat you’ve made for yourself– it really looks great!
The coat is fantastic! Wow, nicely done!
It looks wonderful!! I love the minty tweed fabric and your fit is amazing!
amaaaaaaaazing! that looks neat! what kind of fabric did you use for the muslin? I’m always lazy about making them, and then, choosing the fabric kills me!
I use pink cotton/linen mix for the muslin, it was just something that I had laying around.
You can see my muslin here
This coat looks fantastic! I’ve always been a bit intimidated by such a big project, but your coat has turned out really lovely. Oh, bound buttonholes aren’t that scary, just keep practising on scraps of fabric until you feel like they look fine, then do it on the coat
Wow, that looks fantastic! I’m so intimidated by coats so I’m impressed you dived right in with all these techniques. As for any flaws, with such a big project, I think it’s natural to come away with things you’d want to tweak for next time. But none of those things detract from it being a great coat.
I just thought that there might not be too many chances for making a coat so I want to try all those techniques! I already want to make another one now but how many coats can I have? 😀
That’s a beautifully made coat. The colour is also lovely – suits you.
ou my. this is nice. your are very talented..
Oh my goodness, this is so gorgeous! I’ve just bought the BurdaStyle book and the coat has been catching my eye, so thanks for the tips!!
Woww! it’s gorgeous Novita!!
Thank you Carolyn!
Gorgeous coat! All the work you put in it paid off! I love it.
Wow what a gorgeous coat. Love that green, divine. Really enjoy reading your posts, always feel inspired. Such a motivation coming to your blog.
Oh gosh it’s terrific – yes you are being too picky
I can’t help it! 😀 😀 Thank you!
Love the coat especially the collar change you made and the shorter length on you. I’m sorry I can’t help you with those issues as I haven’t made a coat yet but I wouldn’t have noticed them anyway. I’m sure you’d be able to conquer bound buttonholes if you give it a go. Great job
Wow, lots of work… wonder how long it took you to finish. But it sure look good. The lining is a nice surprise and I love it. Beautiful work, Novita!
You did a really nice sewing job on your coat, no one can see all the little things you are telling us about, your coat is beautiful and I like your choice of lining. I enjoy your blog and all the clothes you make, keep on sewing!! Joan
I’ve been using the BurdaStyle book a lot lately for the blouse pattern but haven’t looked much at the other patterns. Your version of the coat makes me want to give it a try! Beautiful job!