Another pattern from Pattern Drafting vol. II, this is from page 134 and it is called The Onepiece-Coat Ensemble (it is spelled that way!). I only made the coat and made several changes to it. It was shortened into a jacket since I only had one meter of the fabric, and three buttons are used instead of one. As my autumn dress, I didn’t draft the pattern, but cheated by scanning the page and enlarging it by 1000%. Cheating is the way to go!
The jacket has a pair of neck darts on each side and I love the fact that a lot of vintage patterns always have neck darts. They really make the neckline sits nicely. The sleeves are cut as one continuous piece with the bodice, I believe they are called kimono sleeves. The underarm of the sleeves are connected to the bodice with sleeve gussets. Actually I chose this pattern because I wanted to try making a garment with sleeve gusset. Although it was very different than ordinary sleeves, sewing the gusset wasn’t as difficult as I thought it would be. The front openings are not overlapped since they are using buttons and fabric loops.
I didn’t want to buy more fabrics so I used whatever in my stash to make the jacket. The outer fabric is plain grey wool and the lining is Nani IRO double-gauze cotton. The Nani IRO fabric has irregular dots pattern and pretty scallops on the border.
The end result was… well, a bit too plain for my taste. It’s just a plain grey shapeless jacket. Maybe I should have added more details to it, like ruffles or pleats or pockets or collars or tassels (maybe not). On the other hand, maybe it doesn’t hurt to have a rather plain addition to my wardrobe that I can pair with other stuff like this wacky leggings. Anyway, my husband saw the jacket when he came back from work, and he commented that it was really cute. At the end of the day, I still don’t know how I really feel about this jacket.
Dear Mbak Novita, you make me curious with the book. Can you tell me the ISBN number, please? Thank you very much.
The book was published before ISBN numbers are known, so it has no number. You can try searching it by the title and publishing company.
Your husband is right and this jacket is very cute! I find that plain things may not excite you at first, but quickly become staple things that you wear over and over again simply because they go with everything. And that is a really good thing!
Thankyou for visiting my blog and leaving a comment. I believe we are going to meet in Tokyo in January with Yoshimi? I can’t wait to get there, I am so excited to see Tokyo!!
Yes! Can’t wait to go fabric shopping together with you! I’m sure you will love Tokyo
This jacket is so fabulously cute and I love your entire outfit, especially your tights and scarf, oh so chic
Oh my goodness you’re so clever to think of enlarging the pattern. I never realised that they were drawn to sacle. I wonder if it works for other Japanese patterns in other sewing books.
I think all patterns in books are drawn to scale because it would be easier to draw them
This book is easy because the scale is 1:10, I have other pattern book (Australian pattern book) with 1:12 scale, so I have to enlarge it 833.3%. You can check the scale by comparing the measurements of the finished pattern to the actual measurements of the drawing. I hope I make sense 😀
I LOVE this! You make the best stuff and are so adorable! Where did you obtain those fab leggings?
The leggings are from Uniqlo, they have lots of fun leggings there
I like the jacket – it’s simple and that means you can wear it with lots of different pieces. And it looks like it should be great for layering (well, it’s starting to get cold here, so I’m thinking of that).
And of course, it looks well-made like all your items.
And I love your tights/leggings – fabulous!
I LOVE this. So much so that I want to get online and try and track down a copy of that book. I agree with you about neck darts. I always have trouble with a gap at the back of the neck but not when there are neck darts involved. I love those leggings, too– I’m warming to the idea of wearing them more often.
Love it! But I think it would look fantastic with an off center giant bow!
Love the jacket and like that you didn’t put common buttonholes! I gave you a little prize on my blog so be sure to check it out if you find the time
How fabulous! Thank you for the prize! ^_^
That is a fabulous jacket Novita!! The fit if perfect on you and I love the lining you used! What does the back of the jacket look like? : )
Oh I should have taken a picture of the back, but it is basically the same as the front but without the opening. There are a center seam and neck darts
love it! it looks soooo comfy!
hmmm… I hope you will find ways to use it in combos with things that need “cooling off” colourwise, shapewise, it can bring balance to these kind of looks… on the other hand you can’t expect us to followers to dislike you in something, you bring charm to any piece of clothing:) I love the Peter Pan-ish look you put together, so playful and youthful, yet serious:)
It’s a lovely jacket! And it may be a bit plain, but I think that’s great because you can really have fun with accessories – maybe add a removable collar, lots of brooches, etc? Those leggings are awesome too!
A removable collar is a great idea! (^_^)/
It looks lovely Novita! Joyce has reminded me that I’ve been meaning to make removable collars for some of my dresses… when I was 8 I used to have several dresses that my grandmother had made for me that had collars that attached with press-studs and you could change around — they were super cute!!
I think it is great – love the leggings and also plain makes the style more available. No ruffles would be my pick.
I am so impressed with your dressmaking!
I know that this jacket is very basic, but I really like it. I am sure that it can be the basic piece of your outfit when you go all out with a crazy dress or tights (I love your polka dotty ones!).
Also, I completely agree with bust darts, they are such a useful thing for me as there always is a bit of gaping…
Thank you Laurwyn! After my initial doubt passed, now I can see that I can wear this jacket with almost anything in my wardrobe
I always have gaps in my back neckline, maybe my back is a bit sloped, so these darts are really working for me!
This jacket is chic. Maybe I would have added pockets, too. But otherwise it has a timeless flair and you can still wear it in 20 years and still look fabulous. Btw, I love your taste.
I love the simplicity of the jacket. And the colour!
This is my favorite of your work!! I mean I love all your creation, but this one is especially stunning! The scanning and enlarge is really smart idea! I want to try it!
Haha it’s a great shortcut! Now I want to make everything in that pattern book
omgosh that jacket is totally adorable!!! it looks just right on you
i am so in love!!! its so simple and elegant, and i love the outfit you picked out with it! hmmmm! i want to make one too!
Those vintage patterns are wonderful, aren’t they? I kept browsing the book now, looking for things to make
I would love to see your version! Here’s a hopefully clearer picture of the pattern drafting: http://www.flickr.com/photos/verypurpleperson/5165908556/in/photostream/
thank you! hmm! just curious– what are the measurements for that drawing? i know you just scanned this page, and printed it out at 100%, i wonder if i can do the same, perhaps a little larger than 1000%, since i am 20 lbs heavier than you but the same height (im 4’11, you look very tiny when i saw your pictures with other seamstresses!)
The body measurements used in the book are bust: 82 cm, waist: 60 cm, and hip:90 cm. They are actually 1-2 cm larger than my body measurements (except the waist
)but I think it’s okay. Yes I’m very tiny! 😛
If you want to make this coat, I can email you the scanned page if you like.
woo! thank you thank you! what you are saying makes sense. i would love to make this coat for the next spring! the measurements actually are very close to me (waist is a little smaller), so i think it would be perfect!! 😀 thank you again!
Okay – great look! I am so into grey – looks so classy with any accent colour. I love those tights (leggings?) too!
You must have changed your feed/RSS settings recently because now only the first sentence of your posts appear in my Google Reader.
Yes I’m aware of that but I don’t know what’s causing it because I didn’t change anything.
I’m still trying to find out why though. I’m sorry!
I’ve been trying to change it back to full posts but it doesn’t work out. The feedburner and wordpress are both set to full post
I think it’s pretty cute and love how you did the button wholes(loops)!
the ‘continuous’ sleeves are very interesting!
I think a plain clothes come in handy when you layer a lot in the winter, too.
LOVE those leggings too. where did you get them? going over to Japan in a week, maybe I could find some fun leggings there
The leggings are from Uniqlo! They have lots of fun leggings
Its plain but that gives you tons of room to go wild with the rest of the outfit
In love with it!!!
I really like it! It is simple and plain, but the construction is kind of unusual and that adds character. It looks great on you!
You’re right, now I can see my jacket as unusual and not plain anymore! 😛 Thank you, Erin!
So cute and really well done! I think this is one garment that will grow on you. I think you’ll find so many ways to wear it. Naughty schoolgirl? With jeans and heels? With a funky vintage dress? You get the idea!
Yes I guess not everything has to have ruffles on it 😀
I will continue find ways to wear the jacket. Thank you for the ideas Sil! ^_^